![]() I have also bought an electro from Tube Depot it was a JJ/Tesla cap, 50 uF x 2 at 500v, and paid about $9 for it. They sell a 100 uF, 450 v cap for about $2.80 apiece. When I buy electros I normally go to Jameco. If I buy super-quality caps from a place like Tube Depot I wonder if I'm really getting my money's worth or I'm just caught up in hype. If I go to Radio Shack I wonder if saving $5.00 on shipping was worth only getting two capacitors, when I could have purchased 20 of the same type for $7.50. If I purchase off of eBay I wonder whether I am buying low quality parts that the test-equipment designers didn't want to fool with. I'm one of those who is wary about everything. Even RIFA once made a special auto cap in black shrinkfoil with golden print and sold it some 5-10 higher price. Many audio companies requests the capacitor factories to manufacture a speciel line just for them which result in the same caps but in luxury housing. Specielly in low power/voltage I'd use "anything".Īlso note that many so called "Audio Quality" or "HighEnd" caps are nothing but standard caps in a flashy housing with print in gold and a price 10 - 20 times higher than the standard types. Of course if trying out a new design or a new and brilliant idea, I'd pick anything withing an arms reach. ![]() RIFA and WIMA are good choices if you're looking for "silent" transformers. The electric fields generated in the capacitors gives mechanical movements AND the same kind of nonharmonic distortion.Ī way out is to use plastic caps, preferrable polypropylen caps that are thorougly sintered. This effect is also found in film capacitors like paper-in-oil as the winding process leaves cavities of air between the film layers. Most ceramics suffer from an effect called piezoelectriceffect, meaning that some of the electric energy is transferred to mechanical effect giving rise to third-order distortion. It will probably be as large as a 6L6, and I might use the carcass of a dead one to build it. I think someday I will try to build a 100 uF vacuum capacitor just to see what it does. If, hypothetically, there was a non-electrolytic cap large enough to be used as a P/S cap, would it improve quality in any way or would it make no difference.Īlso hypothetically, what would happen if there was a vacuum capacitor large enough to use for audio? I would think that it would be the least destructive to the sound, as well as having extreme arc-over resistance due to the lack of material to ionize between the plates. What if I increased the quality of the cap here? Would it matter? I would think that the type of cap used here is less important. The reason I don't use higher quality caps is the same as above. Depending on the tube stage I pick one that is 10v-50v. I use general purpose electrolytics for cathode bypass capacitors. I don't see the sense in spending more than $10 for a single coupling cap. I've used Sozo Mustard caps for a couple of amps but I don't know what kind of difference they make. I think the Xicon capacitors that are encased in brown or blue epoxy are of the same stock for high voltages. If voltages are low enough I use the green plastic capacitors sold at RS. I'm not sure what mechanics are at work behind the problems with ceramic caps. I'm not about to go shell out $50 for some 10-uF, 100v capacitors to run experiments. Still, I use them in transistor circuits due to the lower input impedances involved. ![]() In my eyes, it's not hard to see why 'lytics would introduce undesired distortion, due to their polarized nature. People have said that electrolytic and ceramic caps don't do well for audio quality. My first question is about the various types of capacitors as use in coupling caps. ![]() I did this because I have several questions in different areas concerning the topic and also because I don't want people to be afraid of going "off-topic." First you may notice that my topic is somewhat broad. ![]()
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